The most famous dish in the region is an entirely meat-free one, an unusual occurrence in a land whose population are obsessed with eating meat, but good news for vegetarians tired of eating salad and fries every day. Like many traditional local dishes, preparing this pie-type beauty takes hours, and is all part of life’s daily ritual. Made from filo pastry in which small pieces of white cheese are often folded, the filling, which also makes an appearance on the top of the pie, is filled with leeks, delicious cheese, green leaves such as spinach (from where the pie gets its name) or chard and—occasionally—tomatoes. If you’re in a restaurant in Maleševo and you see Малешевскизелник written on the menu, order it with a side serving of yoghurt. You won’t be disappointed.

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